Farmer Boy, Chapter 23

Social Studies
Occupation (Cobbler) 
Many people believe that a shoemaker and a cobbler are the same. This is not correct. Shoemakers work only with new leather to make new shoes. Cobblers work with old leather to repair old shoes. They will sometimes tear apart an old shoe and re-cut the leather to make a totally different shoe, but they are still working with old material. The two were separate professions.

The official term for a shoemaker is cordwainer. It is based on the French word cordonnier, which came from the Spanish town of Cordoba. In the 12th century some of the finest leather in the world was made in Cordoba. This leather was called cordouan in French, which was anglicized as cordwain. Since a shoemaker made shoes only with new leather and leather from Cordoba, cordwain leather, was what they used, they adopted the name cordwainer to designate their profession. They usually apprenticed to become shoemakers for 7 years. During that time they contracted, or made a binding agreement to train under a master in the art of shoemaking. They would also demonstrate what they had learned at the end of the time appointed and then the product (in this case shoes) were judged by others who were considered masters in the field. If they were approved they would journey and learn under another master and perfect their trade or they would journey as the Cobbler in Farmer Boy did. The Cobbler in Farmer Boy was important in that he provided a necessary service, but he also brought the news from where he had been. During the 1800s families lived far from each other and just as the County Fair was a time to reconnect so was the Cobbler’s visit a time to reconnect with the news at the time.

The Shoemakers tools:

Common tools like a hammer, knives, and last were used by a shoemaker. A last is a wooden foot-shaped form used to stretch and shape the leather. Most shoemakers had a collection of lasts in various common sizes. Eventually, even the making of lasts became a specialty, as did other tasks in making shoes like making patterns. Patterns were necessary for cutting the leather. Others became cutters, also known as clickers, who cut the leather to the pattern shape. There were closers who sewed the upper part of the shoe together. After the closer finished the upper portion, the maker would attach the sole. Finally, the finishers would line the shoes and dye and polish the finished product. However, the Cobbler in Farmer Boy did all of this himself! This required attention to detail, determination to begin and finish the job. It also required him to be honorable to make a quality product that would stand the elements and life on a farm. No wonder it took at least 7 years to learn this craft.

How the Cobbler made Almanzo’s boots:
1) He chose a piece of maple with a fine, straight grain.
2) He measured, cut, and sawed it until it was ready.
3) He then cut the pieces to make pegs.
4) The Cobbler then measured Almanzo’s feet by tracing them on paper.
5) He whittled two lasts just the shape of Almanzo’s feet.
6) The next day he cut sole from the thick middle of the hide (from butchering earlier) and inner soles from the thinner leather near the edge.
7) He waxed his thread and used a hog’s bristle to sew. (the wax made the seam waterproof).
8) He laid the upper pieces of the sole in a vice (grip to hold something in place) and with his awl (tool to punch holes in leather) he punched holes and sewed the seam together.
9) He added the inner sole and upper part of the boot together and used the awl again to bore more holes to sew the rest. He made a heel of thick leather and secured it with a long maple peg.
10) The boots were finished.